Monday, 9 September 2013

Technopolis Industrial Museum

The buildings and gasometers of Technopolis at Gazi fascinate me. Over the last thirteen years their hulking grey exteriors and mysterious almost sculptural interiors have made the perfect space for hosting exhibitions, fairs and concerts and now the city of Athens has launched its first industrial museum here too.

The museum has been finely set up and you acquire some real knowledge of the history and technology behind the gasworks while strolling through the thirteen buildings of the old plant.

Coal gas first came to Athens in 1857 when a French consortium undertook the task of lighting the city's streets and squares.

 In 1938 the gasworks administration passed from French hands to Athens Municipality and the originally small plant continued to grow, adding gasometers, steam boilers, steam engines, purification units and several other buildings to it's approximately thirty acre site.







There are some lovely mementos on show from the gasworks administrative history, including this early photocopier that looks as if it belongs to the Jetsons!









The plant provided energy to the city until going out of operation permanently in 1984. Luckily, these wonderful buildings were preserved and the first cultural events were hosted in the newly named Technopolis (meaning Art City) premises in 1999.

N.B.  Apart from the museum exhibits, all sorts of events now take place in Technopolis so it's well worth looking at their web site's programme of upcoming events There are quarterly Meet Market fairs that sell handicrafts and second hand items, hip hop festivals, tai chi and capoheira seminars, bicycle festivals and a whole lot more.
 

Wednesday, 31 July 2013

What's needed? A Shot in the Arm!


 The Greek National Health system (IKA) is sick. It is badly in need of some intensive care and it's flickering pulse is fading fast.

This is not news to anyone who lives in Greece or reads Greek news but I, like most people who are not brought into personal contact with the reality of the situation, would read the ever worsening statistics and think "oh how sad" before moving on with my busy life.

My attitude changed this week when two incidents within two days brought me face to face with the realities of medicine in 2013 Greece.

On Monday, a friend was admitted into Evangelismos Hospital (see photos taken in AHEPA at Evangelismos, fifth floor) and as she wanted a couple of friendly faces to accompany her to her angiography, I volunteered.

Expecting the worst, and having heard tales of horror surrounding the general disintegration of care at Evangelismos (Athens biggest hospital complex with beds for 1,100 patients) I was surprised to see that in one respect, state provided Greek medical care hasn't changed at all. The doctors (grossly overworked and underpaid) continue to be generally wonderful. They are highly trained, caring professionals who are trying to do their job against almost unbeatable odds. Due to the crisis entire hospitals have been shut down, the number of intensive care units has been slashed and there have been huge staff cutbacks and salary cuts.

Having googled "angiography" before arriving at the hospital I knew that it is a fairly common procedure that investigates the flow of blood through the veins. It isn't really dangerous to the patient in any way but it does need careful post op care as you have to remain completely immobile in bed for 24 hours as any movement can cause an arterial wall rupture or other complication. I thought it odd that, after her procedure and as we (and by we, I mean literally me and another friend-there was no one else to do it!) were wheeling her up to her room, the doctor laid one of those typed pieces of paper on her bed with after-care instructions that are usually given to outpatients on their way home. I thought, "Why give us this? These vital precautions are only for the first critical 24 hours following the angiography and she will be here for those", but shrugged the thought away.

I was to discover why this paper was important a short while later as the standard of nursing in any state hospital could charitably be described as appalling. Most Greeks know this and don't expect to receive much care from hospital nurses and prefer to hire slightly more qualified private caregivers or rely on their relations to perform nursing duties.
 
Wheeling my friend into her none too clean looking room I noticed there was no nurse to greet her and make up an end of bed chart, or even read the piece of paper with the vital instructions on. After waiting a while I went to the nurses station and found the 'proestameni' or matron. She looked at me as if I was fairly barmy when I explained who I was, told her she had a new patient that, according to the written instructions, should have her vital signs checked right now. I also asked if her new patient could be allowed a drink of water as it wasn't clear on the instruction sheet. As she had no reply (at all) for me, I went and fetched the instruction sheet and showed it to her. "Ach," she said "I don't know, why not ask the doctor?" I hoped that in showing her the instructions, she might tell one of her nurses to follow them and check on my friend.

No such luck, and when I called her later that day my friend told me that despite it writing clearly that her bandages, blood pressure, drip and all vital signs must be checked at three hourly intervals, she was still waiting for a nurse to appear six hours later. There were also no call buttons and as she was forbidden to move a muscle below her neck, it was lucky there were other people sharing the room who had the mandatory army of Greek relatives and friends who could walk to the nurses station and demand some attention for her.

By the time I left Evangelismos that morning I had spent six hours in hospital corridors and "waiting rooms" (four or five chairs usually placed in corridors outside the elevators). I was desperate to either wash my hands or use some of the alcohol gel that in most hospitals is provided in every waiting area and outside every room.  After visiting five different floors and six waiting rooms, I can say that Evangelismos, as far as I know, has many locked bathroom doors and precisely one gel dispenser outside the entrance to outpatients and nowhere else. One, for the entire hospital.

When you cannot pay staff, when there are massive lay off's, when hospital wings are shut down and when there is no money to pump into better nurse training and education you see the sights I saw in Evangelismos.

Something that struck me hard was the ugliness of the surroundings and the lack of privacy. I watched a nervous patient wait to get some results from her doctors. I don't know what her ailment was but she wore a brightly coloured headscarf  to cover her obviously bald head. After a ten minute meeting with doctors in a room off a depressing, dingy corridor (pictured above) she reappeared in floods of tears. There was nowhere for her to go for privacy. She was told to wait on one of the five chairs outside the elevator banks. There she sat and cried and cried.

 I am happy to report that my friend survived the lack of follow up care and the undoubtedly a germ ridden environment and was released from Evangelismos the next day.

That same day I received a tearful phone call from an Albanian woman who has lived in Greece for twenty years and has raised her seventeen year old son here. Between sobs she told me he had collapsed in the street from an unknown cause and had been admitted to, where else?, Evangelismos.  Neither he nor she had state or private health insurance and after a morning of tests, her bill was already over 700 euros, a small fortune for a lady in her circumstances. This sum will keep mounting as the doctors perform more tests to determine the cause of her son's collapse.  If she can't pay, no drugs can be given if needed and perhaps the cause will never be diagnosed.


The official government stance is that if you have no money to pay for medical care, the state will always cover the costs. This seems to be blatantly untrue and there are hundreds of patients with life threatening diseases that are dying simply because they are uninsured or can't afford treatment.

Greece is a European country in the twenty first century but in visiting a state hospital here you would be forgiven for thinking you had dropped into the 1900's in one of the farthest reaches of the third world.

My recent experience this week with the Greek health care system has shown me that it is a body that is dying slowly as its limbs are amputated and its vital organs slow down. The European Union seems to have blithely overlooked the growing health crisis here and those old clichés of uncaring New Yorkers stepping over bodies on their way to work seem to be resonating strongly with me at the moment.   IKA is hanging on by its last breath and it needs help NOW.

I am attaching a link to the Metropolitan Community Clinic and I would ask anyone reading this who thinks I might be exaggerating the problem to have a look at what they have to say on the current state of Greek medical care.

Metropolitan Community Clinic












Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Pelagia Kyriazi



 
These are some of the hauntingly beautiful images that make up Pelagia Kyriazi’s latest exhibition “The Dream and the Familiar”.

Themes of solitude, loss and an underlying sense of foreboding are echoed throughout the collection now showing (June 2013) at the Cultural Foundation of the National Bank of Greece.

 In this collection, which spans work from 1973 to the present, images are sometimes outlined clearly but often the subjects are elusive, asking us to study the jewel like swirls of colours or canvases of shadowy black until we gradually recognize a shape or form.

Kyriazi’s work is very much a dialogue between artist and viewer. Nothing is made too obvious and no conclusions are drawn. Instead, we are invited on a journey of discovery through the masterly, fluid worlds of the dream and the familiar.

For more information on this artist visit  PELAGIA KYRIAZI








Videos on Athens, Greece

Tuesday, 1 January 2013

The List from France




You better watch out
You better not cry
You better file straight
I’m telling you why

The list from France has come back to town.

She made a long list
They’re checking it twice
They want to find out
Who’s naughty or nice

Cos the list from France has come back to town.

This list shows what you’re hiding
Now they’re checking your receipts
They know if you’ve been cheating
So you can’t just press delete!

Oh you’d better watch out
You better not cry
You better file straight
I’m telling you why

The list from France has come back to town.

Wednesday, 23 May 2012

The Dance of Zalongo

Statues marking the Dance


As Greece faces another election the results of which could well decide it's fate within the Eurozone, any parallels drawn with perilous cliff tops and fatal jumps into the unknown are apt. None is quite as pertinent to me, though, as the "dance of the Souliot women" who, in order to escape capture and enslavement by the Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha, threw themselves off the mountains of Zalongo and committed suicide en masse.

Historically, the Souliot women are seen as brave heroines who threw themselves and their children onto the rocks below rather than succumb to a nasty fate. I admire the heroism and patriotism of the act but have often wondered if perhaps they weren't a bit rash and certainly a bit unfair on the children (who presumably had no say in the matter). That brave,  almost reckless sense of 'give me freedom of give me death' that is so much a part of the Greek identity and character is now placing the country in a perilous situation with it's European partners.

Syriza leader Alexis Tsipras has captured the imagination of many Greeks with his campaign to end the 'enslavement' of the country to the international banking sector, the IMF and the EU chiefs who have called for austerity, austerity and more austerity. Voting Tsipras and his left leaning coalition into parliament would be a little bit like taking a leap into the unknown. And it could be a fatal one.

Watching Tsipras' speech before Greece's first parliamentary election was probably very much like watching the first Souliot calling on his companions to rise up against the Ottomans in 1803, a call for the 'Davids' to take arms against the 'Goliaths'.  It was a call that resonates as much with modern day Greeks as it traditionally has throughout this small country's long history, and his party gained massively in popularity. But Tsipras is a young, untried politician who has, as yet, to offer a concrete solution to Greece's problems other than a refusal to accept the (already signed) memorandum.

"Les Femmes Souliot" by Ari Sheffer

 Greece is now dancing the dance of Zalongo with the rest of Europe, threatening to metaphorically throw itself off the cliff if the memorandum of austerity and cuts is not revised. EU leaders were shaken by Syriza's lead in the last election and concerned that Tsipras will achieve a governmental majority this time. He just might. Angry and frustrated by a succession of inept and corrupt governments, Greeks are refusing to give their votes to the old established parties, feeling that this is the one act of defiance and democracy that is left to them by an overbearing EU. Many would rather throw themselves into the unknown than accept what they perceive as a lifetime of endless servitude and bondage to the international banks.

This song is still sung while dancing the "Dance of Zalongo":

Farewell poor world,
Farewell sweet life,
and you, my poor country,
Farewell for ever

Farewell springs,

Valleys, mountains and hills
Farewell springs
And you, women of Souli

The fish cannot live on the land

Nor the flower on the sand
And the women of Souli
Cannot live without freedom

The women of Souli

Have not only learnt how to survive
They also know how to die
Not to tolerate slavery


I am so sad to report that after writing this post the next morning the newspapers were full of this story:
Mother and son jump to their death

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